The famous ‘Amalfi Drive’ runs between Sorrento and Amalfi and offers stunning views of the towns along the coastline, as well as the rugged landscape as it meets the sea.
I only had two hours in Amalfi as part of my day trip but I managed to fit in quite a lot! Alternatively if you want to take things at a more relaxed pace you can soak up the atmosphere in the main square or just chill on the beach.
I went on the Amalfi Coast Last Minute tour run by Tempio Travel, which includes a 2-hour stop in both Positano and Amalfi (this post isn’t sponsored by them, by the way!) I also used Tempio Tours for my Pompeii travel/tour and really recommend them, plus they have a ticket office at Sorrento rail station.
We set off at 11am and were home by about 6ish. As the road has been carved out of the cliff face, the Amalfi drive is winding and narrow which is why it takes a while to get anywhere!
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Before we begin, a quick tip: Public toilet in Amalfi
There is only one public toilet in Amalfi and it’s not on google maps. However, it is in the harbour area below down a flight of stairs so you can miss it really easily. It costs one Euro to use. The automatic gate system was playing up when I was there which made things rather stressful, but I got there in the end. Thank goodness!!
Go shopping, dine out in the main square, or visit Amalfi Cathedral
As you walk inland from the harbour the street opens out into the main square, which was very buzzy, even in late March! Here there are plenty of restaurants where you can sit outside and enjoy the sunshine. (There are also lots of restaurants down the many side streets should you want somewhere a little quieter).
With its black and white striped exterior and arched windows, Amalfi Cathedral is the focal point of the main square. You can’t miss it! I wish I had gone inside but I just didn’t have the time.
Shopping-wise, along the main street there are lots of stores selling traditional goods such as pottery, lemon-patterned bags and scarves, and made-to-measure sandals.
Get yourself a lemon, lemon sorbet
As with Positano, you can treat yourself to a lemon sorbet served…in a lemon! It’s not cheap (€7) but I just had to try one. It was creamy and tangy, with just the right amount of sweetness. It was well worth it!
See some townsfolk in one of the miniature towns
On the road between Positano and Amalfi you’ll see miniature model villages built into the rock face, and they come complete with little figures going about their business. These are nativity scenes and are permanent year-round. Some even have lighting installed!
You can see some of these up close in Amalfi if you head a little way out of the town towards the Museo della Carta. They’re very cute!
Find out more about traditional paper-making at the Museo della Carta
About a 12-15 walk inland from the harbour area is Museo della Carta. You know I love a good niche museum, and the Amalfi Paper Museum did not disappoint!
In the 1700 and 1800s Amalfi was a paper-making hub, using techniques to create paper in a world where the only alternative was vellum. However, due to supply chain issues, competition from elsewhere, and problems with flooding, over the years the industry declined and the majority of paper mills shut down. The Museo della Carta remains to showcase the history and process of paper-making throughout the centuries.
For €4.50 you can take a look around yourself, but it’s definitely worth paying an extra couple of Euros to get the guided tour (€7). The tour itself only takes around 20 minutes, although you might need to wait a few minutes for a previous tour to finish.
As part of the tour you get to see the paper-making process. Believe it or not, Amalfi paper actually began its life as scraps of cloth!
You can see how the machinery developed over the centuries and can even watch this in action, too. The machines harnessed the power of the Canneto river to keep them running, and in fact, when you enter the museum you’ll be greeted by the sound of the river coming from underneath.
Afterwards, there’s a little shop which sells paper (obviously), notebooks, quills, ink and greetings cards. The paper itself is quite rough, although the museum also sells paper which has been coated to be smooth, which is better for writing on.
Other things to do in Amalfi
If you’re staying in Amalfi or have the whole day here, you might also like to try the Amalfi Lemon Experience, which is slightly further out of the town than Museo della Carta. I really wish I’d had more time to try it!
For more information about visiting Amalfi and the surrounding area here’s my 5-day Amalfi Coast itinerary which covers Sorrento, Pompeii, and the island of Capri!
